A Short History of St. James’s Church Birstwith
by: Geoffrey W Manock 1998
Birstwith before the Greenwoods
Birstwith in the year 1800 was a very different place to what is seen today.
The main access into the village came from the Skipton Harrogate road, passing
Menwith and down the church bank to what is now the village green. The road
to Hampsthwaite was but a track suitable for horse riders. It was improved
in 1821 to take a horse-drawn hearse and it was not until 1897 that it was
given passing places in commemoration of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.
The road from Clint continued into Nidd Lane with just a track leading down
to a ford at Wreaks Mill. Wreaks bridge was built in 1811. Upstream, at Newbridge
or the Packhorse, there was a wooden structure and the present stone bridge
was built in 1820 and still called Newbridge. So Birstwith was isolated.
The people with few exceptions
were very poor. It was an era hard to imagine these days when it was the
custom for child labour, long working hours, poor health and cramped living
conditions which were all part of the Industrial Revolution. Visitors to
Birstwith in 1998 look with envy at the sweet little cottages and no doubt
think how lucky to live there or even own one for holidays. Back in the
1800’s they were cramped with large families, sometimes more than one,
disease was rife and life was cheap.
The Greenwood Family (and some local history)
Any account of Birstwith Church must include more than a mention of the
Greenwoods. Without them there would have been no St James’s and the
village would be very different.
John Greenwood came to Birstwith to see the cotton spinning mill. He owned
a mill in Keighley. He must have liked what he saw because in 1805 he bought
Swarcliffe, the cotton mill and the corn mill that was on the same site at
Wreaks, both powered by the river Nidd.
A few years earlier Arkwright had invented his “water frame” which
mechanised yarn spinning replacing hand spinning machines in the home with
machines in the mill. Greenwood quickly enlarged the estate and bought more
property in the village. The population was some 700 (similar to today) with
most work in the two mills and some in the local coal mines. This coal was
used in the gas works which were built in 1820 to provide lighting in the
cotton mill. The cotton mill and the gas works closed in 1864 when cotton
spinning concentrated into large Lancashire mills. It was to be another 50
years before gas was piped from Harrogate. The railway arrived in 1862 and
was closed 100 years later by Dr Beeching’s axe.
Soon after the arrival of the Greenwoods, social pressures mounted that more
should be done to improve the lot of workers. There was the nearby example
of Ingleby building the model village at Ripley and, of course, Sir Titus
creating Saltaire. These trends were to influence the actions of the Greenwoods
and the future nature of Birstwith.
John Greenwood was a Wesleyan and he went to services held in Wesley Cottage
in the Allotments. Soon, he built a chapel on Darley Road. Later, in 1855,
this was to be used for the village school and for Anglican services conducted
by the Curate the Rev Chas. Longley until St James’s was completed in
1857. The chapel was demolished by Frederick Greenwood in1879. The Wesleyans
found a site for their new chapel outside the Greenwood estate along the
Kettlesing road beyond Clapham Green.
John Greenwood died in 1846 when his eldest son Frederick took over the Keighley
estates and his second son Edwin took over Swarcliffe. Edwin rebuilt the
Hall to a new design by M. Rhode Hawkins Esq, the man who was to design St
James’s, but died shortly afterwards in 1852.
John, Frederick’s son, then came to live at Swarcliffe. He was another
remarkable man. He became an MP, was renowned for good work and prompted
his father to endow Birstwith Church. John gave an inspired lecture to his
friends and neighbours in 1859 and an extract from that address is given
later in this account.
Before 1817 there would appear to have been no education in the Village.
The first “little school on the hill” ,which was later to be used
as a Sunday School by Frederick’s son John, was founded opposite the
present site of the church. It was funded by subscription and managed by
trustees : - John Greenwood, senior, the Vicar of Hampsthwaite the Rev. Timothy
Shann and William Houseman of Clint. In 1846 the school moved to the corn
mill and in 1855 it moved again to the Wesleyan Chapel on Darley Road. Where
it remained until the present school and school house were built by Frederick
Greenwood in 1879. In 1902 a new infants classroom was added by Capt. Greenwood
and a further classroom added by public donation in 1998.
Work on the Vicarage, or St James’s Parsonage as inscribed above the
door, was completed in 1859 and the Rev. Hales lived in Sun Cottage until
the house was completed. Due to changed circumstances, the Vicarage had to
be sold in 1993 much to the sadness of many villagers who regarded the big
house and gardens as a part of local life. However, the new Vicarage was
built in the grounds, the first occupant being The Rev. Wilby who moved in
during 1994 when she began her ministry at St James’s.
The “Reading Room”, opposite school, was built by Capt. Greenwood
in 1897 as his Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee gift to the parish. It is hard
to imagine Birstwith without the buildings created by the Greenwood family.
The Church
The church was designed by M. Rhode Hawkins, who has been mentioned earlier.
He was the son-in-law of Frederick Greenwood and architect to the Privy Council
Office. He used a 13th to 14th century Gothic style with a tall slender spire.
The result was amazing as is noticed by every visitor and recorded by many
in the visitors book. The proportions of the building are what one might
see in a cathedral with tall windows, a soaring roof and graceful arches
with supporting pillars. Yet it is small. It was designed to seat 250. Now,
with some pews removed, the seating is just over 200. It is a combination
of the style and the size that gives such a deep sense of intimacy and
tranquillity. Many say it is peaceful; most will sense that it is holy.
A view that some will miss is to stand near the altar and look down the church
at the tall slender arch that leads to the belfry The top of the archway
frames a stained glass picture of the Lamb in the window beyond.
The extract that follows is taken from John Greenwoods lecture of 1859.
“As we look, my friends, at that beautiful spire, tapering to the sky,
we should be reminded by it to send the course of our lives up heavenward
also. When we behold its tall arches, its solid and well worked masonry,
when we see the chastened light streaming through the beautiful and richly
coloured windows, we should endeavour to raise our thoughts in grateful
thankfulness to God, who has graciously permitted us to dedicate so beautiful
a temple to his honour; and as the stones of this temple our church, are
so solidly built and so compactly joined together, so ought we the worshippers
therein to pray and endeavour ourselves to be joined together so compactly,
solidly, firmly, to be built up a Holy Temple in the Lord and as this our
church’s foundation is on a rock of stone, so should we, the congregation,
lay our foundations and build up ourselves on that living rock, Jesus Christ
the Saviour.”
If that was just a small part of a speech to “family and neighbours”
given by a layman, the sermons from the pulpit by a preacher must have been
quite something!
Stone for the building came from the Moss Quarry and finer stone for windows
and carvings was obtained from a Greenwood property in Warsill. The deep
and intricate carving on the chancel arch of grapes and wheat is of special
note. There are many carved stone faces. Who were they? One at the North
entrance has a resemblance to Shakespeare - its nose has a dew drop on damp
days.
The church was consecrated on August 2nd 1857 by the Right Rev. Robert
Bickerstaff, Bishop of Ripon and dedicated to St James the Apostle.
In 1883 the oak reredos was given to the Chapel of Ease at Burnt Yates and
replaced by the current one of alabaster and glass mosaic that was presented
by Mrs Rhode Hawkins who was John Greenwood’s sister. The mosaic was
made to a design by Charles Hargrave by Powell and Son of Whitefriars and
the alabaster by Messrs White of Kennington Park. The mosaic glows as though
lit by an internal light under certain conditions. It depicts the Annunciation,
the Crucifixion and, on the right, the Resurrection
In 1907, Capt. Greenwood gave the tiles that cover the walls on both sides
of the reredos as a jubilee gift. The tiles were again the work of Powell
and Son. The alabaster is topped by the figure of a pelican on its nest.
This ancient symbol represents charity and is also an emblem of Christ. It
comes from the incorrect belief that pelicans feed their own blood to their
young. The mediaeval bestiary, or books, inform that the pelican is very
fond of its brood, but when they grow the parents argue and in his anger
the male kills the young birds. Three days later the mother returns, sits
on the dead birds and pours her blood over them. This brings them back to
life and they feed on her blood.
The Font of Caen stone, which was given by John Dury , was moved from near
the main door to its present position at the front of church in 1980. Its
cover is of carved oak. This had originally a chain and gold coloured
counterweight representing the Star of Bethlehem, but its use was not possible
with the lower headroom in the new position under an arch.
Also during 1980 the Church was carpeted and some pews removed. This created
space at the back of Church for displays and to meet one another after services.
The space at the front below the Chancel steps allowed the Communion Table
to be brought to the congregation. It also enabled performers to take part
in an increasing variety of services, concerts and plays.
The Choir Vestry was added in 1892 (one source says 1894) in memory of John
Dury of The Moss subscribed for by the whole parish.
In1987 the Church was Grade II listed.
The Church Hall, with kitchen and lavatories, was added in 1988. This was
possible after a legacy was received from Frank Watson. His will included
bequests to many local churches and chapels. The building was designed and
the work supervised by Mike Bellis and Roy Whiteoak whose efforts enabled
an ambitious project to be completed with the funds available. Most of the
materials were taken from demolitions in Yorkshire towns and cities. The
maple floor would once carry machinery in a factory and the window stonework
would grace a fine building. The painted cricket stumps on the reclaimed
stone of the East wall, applied by a child for a game many years ago, have
been left to give a touch of nostalgia.
In 1995 the Parish Council purchased a copy of the Domesday Book. This is
kept in a display cabinet at the rear of church and is open at the page referring
to Birstwith.
Stained Glass
St James’s is fortunate in having a lot of stained glass; so much so
the interior can be rather dark on dull days. This point is more than offset
by the wonderful effects that are given as the sun moves and the results
change with the seasons.
The first East window, given by Sarah Greenwood when the church was opened,
was painted by Ward and Hughes and depicted the Transfiguration, the Last
Supper, the Agony in the Garden, the Carrying of the Cross, the Crucifixion,
the Resurrection and the Ascension. It was given to Hartwith Church in 1888
and replaced by the present magnificent window given as a tribute to the
founder Frederick Greenwood by his friends. The window was designed by John
William Brown and made by James Powell. It depicts the Ascension and is a
fine example of Victorian stained glass.
The window half way down the South wall will be noticed as having a markedly
different style to the rest of the stained glass. It is attributed to Clayton,
the master of late Victorian glass, but there is no record to support this
view.
Now for a puzzle. The window to the left of the pulpit, showing Abraham and
his son, was in need of lead repair in the 1950’s. The window was replaced
when the work was completed, but to the horror of the craftsman the panels
were not in correct order. The craftsman was embarrassed, waived his
fee for the work, but did not reposition the panels. Can you spot the mistake?
Communion Plate and Brass
The church was lucky in having most of its fine silver and silver-gilt plate
presented in time for its consecration in 1857. These were given by various
members of the Greenwood and Dury families. The brass Processional Cross
was bought by members of the congregation in 1898.
Although not connected with church plate, it is interesting to record here
the carved oak box that was made by Walter Fawcett, carpenter at Swarcliffe,
in the 1870’s. It was created from a solid piece of wood taken from
a tree felled in Hampsthwaite Lane in 1848. It now holds small items of Communion
linen, but it once held lace that had been made in Nazareth and brought to
Birstwith by the 5th Vicar the Rev. Baskett.
The Organ
The first music was supplied by a harmonium given by the founder. It is on
record that it was played by a blind man John Lowcock. He lived in Hartwith
and he walked to Church twice every Sunday along the riverside without the
help of any guide!
The first organ was obtained in 1873 from Jones of London and sited to the
left of the pulpit. It was first used at Epiphany in January 1874 when the
choir wore surplices, and sat in their new stalls behind the low stone screen
that had been built in Autumn 1873.
In 1888 the organ was moved to its present position and enlarged by Binns
of Leeds with an organ chamber and new arches admitting sound to the chancel
and South aisle.
The organ was blown by a fan powered by water running down a special two
inch main from Swarcliffe. The noise of rushing water could be heard during
the quieter moments of organ music. The water system was replaced by an electric
blower when electricity was introduced into church in 1952. It was arranged
that the organ could be pumped by hand in the event of power cuts.
There have been two major overhauls of the organ in recent years, the last
in 1997 by John Clough. The instrument is in fine condition ready to go into
the next century.
The Bells
When the church opened there were three bells. Two were given by the Founder
and the third by the Rev. Staniforth whose bell was discovered already cast
as a model for Great Ben in the houses of Parliament. Two more bells were
added by the founder in 1860 and the sixth by the Rev. Baskett in 1905. They
were all cast and hung by Warners of London. The six bells had an Ellacombe
chiming apparatus in which six ropes, from hammers for each bell, ran to
an operating box in the Belfry. In this way the bells could be run by one
person. The box is still in the Belfry acting as the master electric switch
box. It has six holes in the top that used to take the hammer ropes.
These six bells were not in perfect tune and the decision was taken in 1933
to have them recast into the existing set of eight bells. The work was given
to Taylors of Loughborough. The bells were rehung in a new metal frame and
have been kept in excellent condition. They are favoured by visiting teams
of ringers and the peals often ring out up and down the valley.
Bellringing is a hobby that has varied in popularity over the years and is
one that demands dedication and practice. Even so, there is an ongoing interest
in bell-ringing in Birstwith and the bells of St James’s ring out before
every service and on special occasions.
Lighting
The Church was lit originally by candles mounted on coronas and brackets.
These have not survived. In recent years the very moving character of a candlelit
church has been reproduced for Christmas Services and in the days before
Easter. Gas was in the village from 1820 to 1864, but it did not reach church.
Gas from Harrogate arrived about the turn of the century and was eventually
used to light church. Some of the original gas fittings and pipes have been
removed only recently. The Greenwoods had a stake in Harrogate Gas Works
and it is said that they resisted the coming of electricity to Birstwith.
Whatever the reason, electricity was not fed into Church until 1952 for driving
the organ blower. Electric lights were installed in 1955. Several
local residents can remember their childhood task of lighting the gas mantels
and extinguishing them after the services. On the other hand, they recall
that switching on electric lights was a job for grownups. At least until
the novelty wore off.
The electric arrangements in church were completely renewed in 1992. The
result, with various types of bulb and housing, is that the lighting can
be changed dramatically to suit the mood and atmosphere required for any
service or event.
Heating
The Church was first heated by hot air. How this was done is not clear, but
it was unsatisfactory. Thus, in 1872 central heating with hot water pipes
was installed fired by a coke/coal boiler in the cellar. Some more modern
radiators are now in place to give added heat, but the old large bore pipes
remain and, given a day or so to warm up, the church can be made comfortable
on the coldest of wintry days. Now the boiler is oil-fired and there is no
longer the need for the hard work of stoking and removing clinker.
The Graveyard
The entrance to the graveyard is guarded by a magnificent Sequoia (Wellingtonia)
tree. In their native California, these wonderful trees can grow to 300 feet.
The one at St James’s is doing well and may eventually be as high as
the church spire! The person who chose and sited this glorious specimen was
inspired. It is suggested that a tree may be planted at St James’s to
celebrate the Millennium. It will need to be a careful choice if it is to
match one day the giant Sequoia and other trees in the graveyard.
Walking up to the main door, the path is lined with clipped yews that were
planted in 1907 to replace existing Yews, and the plot to the right is allocated
for Darley. Two impressive Lebanese Cedars are sited at the Eastern corners
of the Church and an English Oak was planted by Bishop John Neale during
Holy Week 1997 in the graveyard extension. This extension was added in 1952
and has not been used for a burial at the time of writing.
It is awkward to fly a flag from a spire. The flagpole was erected in 1995
as a gift from a past Churchwarden and it can fly St Georges flag with the
arms of the Bishops See in the first quarter. (That is the top quarter of
the flag that is against the flagpole)
The graveyard was prepared by John Gray, gardener at Swarcliffe. The original
grave plan was made by Mr Cockett the Schoolmaster at Burnt Yates. This plan
is still in use and hangs in the Vicar’s Vestry.
A Garden of Remembrance was constructed in 1973 below the East window. In
it, a tablet was placed in memory of Cyril Kennedy, Vicar. The names of those
remembered by the burial of ashes are recorded on hand-written scrolls displayed
at the side of the door leading into the choir vestry.
During the years 1979 to 1985, kerbstones were removed from most graves and
those with engraving resited. The area was reseeded with the result that
the yard can be more easily maintained. At the same time, old closets that
were outside the bottom gate were removed and in their place steps lead to
a small garden with a seat and a view of the village green.
Incumbents
The Vicars of Birstwith Parish are listed below.
1857-1874 George Hales
1874-1883 John George Bury Knight
1884-1887 Samual Joy
1887-1892 Harry Vivian Bacon
1892-1908 Charles Robert Baskett
1908-1916 Norman Edward Marsh
1916-1925 Percy Dodd
1925-1947 Reginald Brittain
1947-1967 Robert Cecil Capel-Cure
1968-1973 Cyril Ormonde Kennedy
1974-1989 Ronald Cecil Hall
1991-1993 Peter Garner
1994-2001 Wendy Ann Wilby
2002- George Mackey
In Conclusion
Consideration has been given to the history of St James’s and the glorious
building but, remembering the stirring speech of John Greenwood, the church
is nothing without the people. They are THE church who worship day by day,
week by week as they attempt to witness God’s love in Christ. They are
helped in this hard task by the building of St. James's. It is a peaceful,
prayerful place to enter. It provides a 'sacred' spot.
It is a welcoming church- its doors are open in daylight hours- and regular
prayers are said at 9am and 4pm Monday to Saturday in addition to Sunday
services.
The Greenwood Family Tree
John Greenwood
|
Frederick Edwin
(1797-1862)
(m Sarah Staniforth)
|
|_______________________________
Major John M.P. Mary Littledale Emily
(1829-74)
(m Louisa Elizabeth Barnardiston)
|_________________________________________________________________
Capt Frederick Barnardiston Capt Charles Staniforth Col Edwin Wilfred
Hubert Clara
(1859-41)
(m Eleanor Dent)
|_________________________________
Col Victor John Ruth Margaret Marion
(1889-1949)
(m May Annie Church)
|
______________________________________
Frederick William Col Bernard Charles John
David
(1927-82)
(m Juliet Melville)
|
Sarah Jane
(1965- )
(m Crispin Finn)
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